Anna-Sophie Berger by Katarina Soskic

Photographs by Katarina Soskic
All Clothing and Text by Anna-Sophie Berger

 

 

Anna-Sophie Berger is a fashion designer living and working in Vienna. Her latest collection is titled ‘m/m2.

This collection was inspired by early Kazimir Malevich drawings–the Black Square, Louise Bourgeois’ graphic fabric works, and Vanessa Beecroft’s aquarelle paintings. I focused on the geometry of the square. Colors and shapes are reduced and limited to a prefixed form, then transformed and disrupted. Reading through Malevich’s constructivist philosophy, I found myself intrigued by his idea of achieving a point of zero, without calling it the end but the start of a new form. Applying this idea to a collection led to hand silk-screened prints of three different sizes of squares, black lines on shades of white, and bright blue being the sole color. Whereas the smallest print appears like an overall grid, the biggest one looses itself in mere lines across the body.

The fabrics are primarily white with a focus on natural fabrics like wool-cashmere mix, cotton-jersey, washed silk, and loden merino-wool-knit. Working with the square as a condition for construction, it became the framework for my pattern making. All patterns are based on the square; 90-degree corners and edges define the outlines and shapes. The square is broken and fragmented by cut outs, that are all made in the straight grain. This limitation pushed me to find ways to fit the flat, straight lines, to the curves of the body. (Cont. on pg. 11)